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SPRING-SUMMER 2012I sea&iI65The Turquoise Coast, the Turkish Riviera or, accord-ing to The New York Times, the Saint Tropez ofTurkey. call it what you will, Turkey's southerncoastline deserves every compliment andsuperlative that's thrown its way. A place where Persian, Lycian,Carian and Roman influences abound, where you can gawp at theancient Temple of Apollo, model your best bikini on CleopatraBeach, paraglide over lagoons and dine on gourmet seafood, thisis a land of legends, leisure and, increasingly, luxury.Come summer, ever more superyachts are steering a course tothis stunning stretch of coastline as charterers realise just howfurtherafieldvast and varied the cruising options are here. Such is the calibreof Turkey's culture that archaeologists and historians can havea field day, but likewise its scenery inspires romantic escapes andits terrain makes it the most compelling of open-air museums andplaygrounds for young and old alike. With a legacy stretchingback thousands of years, Turkey has come of age.Numerous itineraries can be carved out along the coastline,which dips, curves and undulates with intriguing hidden coves,caves and bays, pine-clad hills, golden sandy beaches and idyl-lic villages. Here, we trace two routes, cruising east fromBodrum to Göcek, and then from Göcek to Antalya. ?southern turkey

66Isea&iISPRING-SUMMER 2012Bodrum to GöcekThe Turkish wised up to Bodrum's charms long before the restof Europe as it has traditionally been their favoured summerdestination, but now the rest of the world is playing catch up.This is also the city that has garnered Turkey comparisons withSaint Tropez. It's no wonder, then, that this region has been soardently fought-over during its long history. With its lightning-white houses draped with bright purple bougainvillea andstacked against green hills overlooking bays of impossibly bluesea, this is a visually spectacular place. There is an international airport just outside the town centre,so you can fly in and spend time in town before joining youryacht. Stay, perhaps, in the Amanruya - a new five-star villaresort with pool-terrace cottages complete with open bath-rooms with rain showers, private gardens with pergolas, daybeds and a pool. Or try the Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay, whichhas its own private beach, infinity pool and indoor pool. Life in Bodrum centres on the two ports, where cafés, bars,restaurants and meyhanes(taverns) make it easy to slip into alazy pace of life. A great way to familiarise yourself with thecoastline is to take a gulet trip around the Bodrum Peninsula- it will certainly get you in the mood for cruising, and as thegulet is the traditional waterborne craft of Turkey it is a lovelyway to assimilate with the local culture. Discover pretty beaches,forested coves and quaint fishing villages, and dive overboardto swim in the incredible waters before heading back to shore. While in Bodrum, visit the Castle of St Peter, built by theKnights Hospitaller in the 15th century, which looks out over theharbour. It is still in excellent condition and home to the world-famous Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, thenhead to Cumhuriyet Caddesi (aka Bar Street) for shopping andnightlife. Or unpack your dancing shoes for Halikarnas - afamous open-air disco on the sea, with amazing laser showsand some of Europe's best music. Setting sail on your superyacht a day or two later is theperfect opportunity to snap photographs of the city and thecastleas you head out on charter. A typical itinerary during aten-day or fortnight cruise might take you to Göcek via Kos,Knidos, Datça, Symi, Bozburun and Marmaris.VOYAGE OF DISCOVERYThe Greek island of Kos is one of the largest in the Dodecaneseand was the birthplace of Hippocrates (the father of modernmedicine) around 460BC. While you're there, head for the hotsprings at Bros Therma near Agios Fokas. The pebble beach mayITINERARYBODRUM TO GOCEKBODRUM-KOS................................................................11nmKOS-KNIDOS/DATÇA.....................................................35nmDATÇA-SYMI....................................................................8nmSYMI-BOZBURUN..........................................................12nmBOZBURUN-MARMARIS................................................40nmMARMARIS-GOCEK.......................................................46nmAbove: Turkey is a sailors' paradise, withthousands of yachts, new and traditional,plying its waters